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Hannah O'Connell in Morocco - January to June 1998

Acknowledgements

I would like to thank the following persons and organisations for the kind donations which ireceived prior to leaving for Morocco:

Mr S Cumines BVSc MRCVS, Veterinary Surgeon, Mrs M Wallis, Honorary Treasurer, The Bronwen Jacques Benevolent Fund, Mr S Lyons, Mrs J Fitz, Howell's School Llandaff.

And special thanks to The Hilda Lloyd (nee Roberts) Memorial Bursary without which I would not have even contemplated this marvellous adventure

Introduction to Morocco

Morocco is set at the north-western extremity of the African continent. It is bordered by the Mediterranean, the Atlantic Ocean, Algeria and Mauritania. Europe lies a stone's throw away, just across the strait of Gibraltar.

Morocco is divided by 4 mountain ranges: The Rif, then the Middle, High and Anti Atlas ranges. Morocco is roughly the same area as France with terrain varying from snow covered mountains (Mount Tubkal is highest mountain in North Africa, 4167m) to rock and sand desert of the Sahara.

The original population of Morocco was Berber. In the 8th century the Arabs successfully invaded the Northern African Berber countries. The majority of Berbers were converted to Islam and this was the starting point of the 6 Islamic Berber Dynasties. The reigning present day dynasty is The Alaouites.

The present king is Hassan II, who has ruled since 1961. He rules in a constitutional monarchy. Islam is the established state religion His father Mohammed V ruled in 1956 when France granted Morocco it's independence. French is still the official second language in schools. Spanish also has a strong influence in Northern Morocco due to previous Spanish occupation. Arabic, however, is the main language of Morocco.

Moroccan Arabic is very different to classical Arabic, the language of the Koran, which is the Islamic holy book. Berber, the oldest language in North Africa, is also widely spoken and each region of Morocco has a specific Berber dialect.

The present population of Morocco is coming towards 30,000 000 and the life expectancy is approx. 69 years.

The capitol of Morocco is Rabat, Casablanca is known as the economic capitol and Fes the cultural. The currency of Morocco is dirhams (15 dirhams=1 pound approx.). Industries of Morocco are phosphate mining, food processing, leather goods, textiles and tourism. Agriculture employs the majority of the population

So, there we see the facts and figures which make up Morocco, but what about real life? What was it like living in a completely new country, climate and culture? I want to tell you about Morocco from my eyes, my experiences. I want to explain how the last 6 months have changed my life and about how taking a gap year was one of the best decisions of my life.

In the beginning there was the scholarship application, an extremely hyped up version of who I am (was), however it's a good introduction to me and the situation if you don't know me, and a good laugh if you do:

Scholarship Application, June1997
Hannah O'Connell
70 Bishops Road
Whitchurch, Cardiff
CF4 1LW

I am applying for this scholarship as my future aim is to work as a vet in a developing country. I plan to study Veterinary Medicine at university and after graduation apply my knowledge to assisting these people in the care of their animals. I believe that this will not only lead to better lives for the animals, but also their owners, who depend on the animals to earn a living. The working lives of many animals could be extended greatly, with only a minimum of veterinary care and experience. Being involved in this six month project will not only be an amazing adventure, but will enable me to begin to understand the life and culture of the people that one day I hope to be working with.

Studying abroad would be a rewarding experience. At GCSE, French and Geography were among my favourite subjects. My interest in languages, different religions and cultures is keen. Studying the sciences for A level, however, has meant that less time has been available to develop these interests, although I have carried on learning Welsh and taken part in Hindu and Muslim festivals. I feel that in my gap year, I not only want to do something positive for my application to veterinary science but also take the time, that hasn't been available so far, to enhance my initial passion for language, religion and culture through travel. I have already visited Morocco and find it a fascinating country.

I believe I am prepared for the challenges of this project. I am an independent person who loves the outdoors. I have been on many camping trips with friends and also lived and worked away from home last summer during a work experience placement. I have experienced handling a wide variety of animals through work in veterinary practices, on farms, and in catteries and kennels. At the moment I have a job working in a reptile centre. Previous work has involved waitressing and as a sales assistant. Working in one of the biggest department stores in Cardiff gave me confidence in dealing with many different people and I also learnt to work as a team.

I was elected prefect in school last year and took the job of House Captain. Winning the eisteddfod in March was one of the highlights of my school life. I enjoy school and learning. I have been involved in voluntary research projects in the University Hospital of Wales and was part of a team of sixth formers which successfully made a presentation at the Darwin Conference.

I can relate to young people and find it easy to make new friends of all ages. As well as acting and doing ballet I have directed and choreographed numerous plays and shows. Last year I took the Diploma of Achievement course which has taught me many skills including, team work, organisation, use of computers and first aid. I have a silver medal in Spoken English.

I have been the organiser of many fund raising projects and I was on the charity committee in school last year. Outside of school a friend and I formed a fund raising club with young people in our area and raised over one thousand five hundred pounds for charities across the world. For my eighteenth birthday my grandmother gave me a gift of one thousand pounds, I have been saving this to spend on something worthwhile and special. If I am lucky enough to achieve the scholarship I will use this money for my trip. I believe I will be able to obtain the rest of the money from fund raising and my parents have agreed to donate the remaining amount. I already have some ideas on how I would like my gift money to be allocated.

My friends tell me that I am a cheerful optimistic person. I believe I can give a lot to this project I am enthusiastic and committed.
From London to Taroudant

In December I was invited to a meeting in London. This was exciting enough as I'd never been to London before properly. I was nervous as well for this would be the first time I would meet the other volunteers and I dreaded to think what they would be like. At the meeting everyone was rather sheepish and quiet apart from Jessica who asked a few questions I sat there stressing "quick think of an intelligent question, think!" but I couldn't. After the meeting we went for a drink and people began to relax, I started to realise that these people had the same hopes and fears as me for the next 6 months and that maybe together we were going to have a great time.

The second time I met everyone again after London was Gatwick airport January 7th. Jessica was wittering on about her ticket and Ali was having problems with pushing the trolley. I said a tearful good-bye to my parents then boarded the plane. 6 months seemed like such a long time then.
In Gibraltar we were met by a trust representative, the next day was allocated to touring the Rock and then from Gibraltar to Spain to get the ferry to Tangier. After a meal in Tangier the midnight express train carried us to Marrakech where we met David Denison and the landrovers 8am.

After a hair raising 8 hour landrover grand prix over the Tisni Test pass of the snow capped High Atlas mountains we arrived at our final destination Taroudant. As we entered the ancient walled city we were all a bit apprehensive not to mention tired from the plane\train\landrover 3 day journey to and through Morocco, although it had been the best introduction to the magnificent scenery of the country and each other. We knew Taroudant was going to be our home for the next 2 weeks and that what we learnt here would set us up for the next 6 months.
The week followed a schedule, French lessons at 9am after a breakfast of fresh bread, freshly squeezed orange juice and home-made marmalade. Then 2 hours of Arabic. After lunch there were afternoon projects ranging from - helping out at the orphanage, working in a Moroccan patisserie, working in a leather shop, gardening in the convent gardens, bamboo furniture making and helping out on the local horse and carriage taxi. The evenings consisted of culture lessons followed by a Moroccan meal.

Ramadan

We arrived in Morocco during Ramadan, which is an important part of the Muslim calendar. It involves a lunar month of fasting during daylight hours. This was very strange for us because eating on the street or in front of Moroccan friends was considered disrespectful. During this time I was invited to "break the fast" at numerous families houses, this occurred at sunset around 6.30pm after praying. Through tradition it started with a meal consisting of cakes, dates and herera, a Moroccan soup. It was a great evenings entertainment and also introduced me to the delights of Moroccan cuisine.

The custom of fasting in Ramadan goes back to the time of Mohammed (the last prophet). He taught his followers that the fast was important because it was a sign that they submitted to Allah. Muslim's believe it is important as it gives patience and proves that religion is foremost in their lives, it gives them a chance to focus on their religion and their actions of the last year. One of the aims of Ramadan is to make everyone equal as rich and poor alike experience the pain of hunger. At the end of a successful Ramadan a Muslim should feel closer to God and more able to cope with life. If the fast is broken, to make up the Muslim must continue to fast an extra 60 days. The old and the young under 12, pregnant or ill are not expected to fast. During Ramadan people attend special prayers in the mosque as well as praying 5 times a day in the direction of Mecca (which should be done throughout the year) and read the Koran. Some Muslim's choose to stay in the mosque for the last ten days of Ramadan. This is called a retreat and copies the actions of Mohammed.

Morocco during Ramadan is very different to normal, when I arrived it was not at first apparent that this was a nation obsessed with eating. During the day the streets were very quiet as people tried to sleep off hunger, people worked at strange hours to tie in with Ramadan. It made me realise how difficult it must be for a Muslim in Britain trying to fast where no allowance is made. I felt that Ramadan in Morocco was a very special time. To think that a whole nation was involved in this occasion was amazing and then to realise that every Muslim in the world was fasting at the same time was incredible, you can see clearly how it brings the Islamic world closer together and strengthens their faith.

The Placements

The next 6 months was planned into three sections : 1st placement, Easter break, and 2nd placement. I was lucky enough to spend both my placements living with Moroccan families. This enriched my placements greatly and really gave me a proper insight into Moroccan life.

Life with a Moroccan Family Living in Khemisset

I arrived in Khemisset on January 27th. Three of the other volunteers : Cath, Ieuan, and Ali were going to work and live in the handicap centre 3 km out of Khemisset and I would be staying with Kacem's family (Kacem is the responsable for the Trust in the North of Morocco) and working for the SPANA refuge in Khemisset. (SPANA is a British charity which provides veterinary help and education in Morocco and other parts of Africa).

Khemisset is a small town in the North situated on the road between Rabat and Meknes. After spending 2 weeks in the South in Taroudant it seemed very modern on first arrival.
The family were so kind and friendly, and proved that Moroccans must be one of the most hospitable peoples. I did not find any difficulty with the language barrier, Kacem spoke good English and my GCSE French and beginners Arabic was sufficient to communicate with the rest of the family with the help of hand signs. I was sucked into the Moroccan life and found it surprisingly easy to become accustomed to, even though it was extremely different to life in Britain.

The house was one floor with a roof terrace. There was no running water, but fresh clean, cold water from a well inside the house. There were 4 rooms in the house : kitchen, 2 bedrooms and the Moroccan salon. All the cooking was done on a small gas camping type stove. The two bedrooms contained only cupboards and carpets, on the floor cushions were scattered for people to sit propped up with.

The salon was the main room of the house, it had the typical Moroccan sofa arrangement which means an oblong sofa seat goes all the way around the walls of the room. We had a tv, phone and fax machine because of Kacem's work with the Trust. Other families in our area did not have a tv, when the football was on the local cafes were packed with men watching the tv's, it was very rare to see a woman in a cafe in Khemisset. The teleboutic was where most Moroccans made phone calls from, these were shops with public telephones and you could find them everywhere. At night I slept in the salon with Kacem and his sister, Kadijia. The sofas turning into beds.

Moroccans have huge families and the sense of family is very strong. My family consisted of 5 sisters and 2 brothers. Lubna was the youngest at 16 and Fatima the oldest around 40. Eisha and Simira were married with children of their own but lived near enough to still feel part of the whole family ( Simira only lived across the road). The wife of the oldest brother, Mohammed, lived with us with their two children because Mohammed worked for the army in the Sahara most of the time. You can imagine the house was very hectic. Neighbours, aunts, uncles and cousins were always welcome too. The sense of community was very strong. The door was always open for visitors and the sisters always ready to make mint tea for an unexpected guest and then convince them to stay for lunch.
The more you can eat, the more you're liked in Morocco, so I was off to a good start! The food was absolutely delicious. Friday was cous cous day. Cous cous is a traditional Moroccan dish of small grains of semolina and vegetables with meat, usually chicken. In Morocco everyone eats from the same large dish in the middle of the table. I was allowed to use a spoon to eat cous cous as I never quite got the hang of rolling the fine grains into balls. All other meals I ate with my right hand using bread to scoop up food. Before eating it is custom to say "Besmellah" - "thanks to God". As well as being great believers in eating the Moroccans are also fond of sleeping. Usually after lunch there would be a relaxation period\ siesta and in the evenings the dinner was not served until around 10.00pm so you could go straight to bed afterwards.

The hammam is a very important part of Moroccan life, it is the main washing facility. A public bath type idea, the hammam was a very social event. I would go with the sisters and children, about twice a week. It's like a sauna steam room, you fill buckets with water and then find a place to sit. We would spend hours in the hammam, it's a great way to relax and afterwards you felt cleaner than you'd ever felt before.

Talking of cleaning, washing day seemed to be every day in our house, an on going battle using cold water, scrubbing board and good old "Tide".

Whilst living in Khemisset I respected the idea of women covering up (arms and legs). The jelaba is the popular dress for Moroccan women, a long sleeved hooded dress which slipped over normal clothes and was by no means dull. Many of my friends had designer jelabas with Calvin klein motives and they came in all sorts of bright colours and patterns. Many of the older men had equivalents of jelabas too, usually brown made of thick material, we joked that they looked like Obi Wan Kenobi from Star Wars.

Living In Rabat

I was nervous and excited about moving to Rabat for my 2nd placement. I would be alone in Rabat as far as the other volunteers were concerned. This was worrying as in Khemisset I could visit Cath, Ieuan and Ali at the handicap centre whenever I wanted to. However, Rabat, the capitol city of Morocco, main residence of His Majesty Hassan II, the seat of government and the foreign embassies, was ideal for me. The big city and the beach beckoned me. I was also excited because my work would again be with SPANA but the refuge in Rabat was much bigger than that in Khemisset and so I would be able to see a different side of the work, more consultations, small animals and operations.

I had arranged to stay with the family of Kacem's cousin, Said. I had met Said a number of times when he had visited Khemisset and we got on really well. Living in Rabat was a totally different experience to Khemisset. Even though I'd only moved an hour's taxi journey up the road, the change in life style was incredible.

My house in Rabat was large and light. It was arranged into 2 storeys with a central court yard on the ground floor which led all the way up to the sky. On the roof there was a covering which protected this courtyard from excess sun or rain. The rooms were arranged around the courtyard. 3 Moroccan salons and a kitchen. The kitchen was much more modern than Khemisset, running water, an oven and a fridge. The toilet was the same style as Khemisset, a squat loo, but I was an expert at that by then.

The 2nd floor of the house was where Said's brother, Symohammed, lived with his new wife Sumia. There were also bedrooms on this floor. On the roof there were two rooms, a wash room where all the washing equipment was stored (it was still cold water and scrubbing board method for washing, and as in Khemisset the washing would be hung up on the roof) and Said's room which he lent to me. I kept my clothes in a cupboard up there and it was nice to have a bit of personal space again after the closeness of living in Khemisset. I didn't sleep in the roof room, but downstairs in the salon. The roof room was were me and Said listened to rap music, played cards and talked at night. Sumia took it upon herself to teach me how to cook in the evenings as well. Cooking lessons would begin with shopping in the local market after work and the words "o.k. Hannah this is very easy", it never was. My family literally were shocked that I couldn't cook, Symohammed once demanded quite confused "but what happens when you are married?". This typically shows the roles of men and women in Morocco, women look after children, clean and cook, men work. Of course times are changing and in Rabat especially women are beginning to work outside the home too. Said was very proud to tell me that Rabat was the first place they were experimenting with having women in the police force.

Once again, the family I lived with were caring and kind and my worries of feeling alone in Rabat soon dismissed. Rabat is one of the 4 Imperial cities of Morocco, (the others being Fes, Meknes and Marrakesh) and so I had plenty of sightseeing to do on my doorstep. The most obvious monument in Rabat is The Tour Hassan. This imposing tower looks down onto Rabat, even though the top is missing it is still magnificently huge, 360 stone columns still stand at it's base a reminder of the ancient mosque that once stood here. The majestic mausoleum dedicated to the father of Hassan II, sultan Mohammed V is also located here. Built in 1971 it is a masterpiece of Hispano-Moresque architecture and Moroccan art. The decoration is exquisite, and sight framed by guards in traditional uniform on horse back. The Kasbah of the Oudaias is one of my favourite parts of Rabat, a fortified citadel with beautiful gardens and here also I found the best positions for views over Rabat, Sale, and the sea. On my lunch breaks from work I would often travel to the beach. For a really peaceful lunch time I would travel to Chellah, outside the city walls. A monument of gardens and ruins surrounded by imposing ramparts, Merinid tombs have also been excavated here.

Rabat is a classic mix of old and new, to contrast the old monuments the city centre is a very European type area. The McDonalds fast food restaurant was a welcoming reminder of home although having become used to Moroccan money and prices I was soon disappointed. The prices were the same as Britain, for normal Moroccans these were extortionate. It was weird to realise that a Big Mac was a really expensive treat which could only be afforded by the rich of Rabat city. Alcohol in Khemisset was virtually impossible to obtain, in Rabat it was sold in cafes, bars and night clubs usually attached to hotels. However it was relatively expensive due to the fact that Muslims, by religion, aren't supposed to drink . Many of the bars and clubs are also very undesirable places. The two main streets of the modern city are named Mohammed V and Hassan II, it is interesting to note that in Morocco every city has these two street names for the main streets. It is therefore usually simple to find the main street in any city by simply asking for Mohammed V.

Many of the younger girls walking on the street wore fashionable clothes and would sit in cafes. For me, it meant less pressure to cover up, although when in my house I did so, in order to respect Said's parents who were both very well thought of in the area as they had been on the pilgrimage to Mecca in Saudi Arabia. As the birth place of Mohammed it is the holiest city of the Islamic world, at it's centre is the Great Mosque. To travel there is the ultimate goal for all Muslims. Once they have been to Mecca they are referred to as the Hajj (male) or Hajja (female) as a term of acknowledgement and respect.

Eid al-Kabeer
(Eid al-Adha, Feast of the Sacrifice)

On April the 8th, the day before my birthday, fell one of the most important rituals of the Islamic calendar, Eid al-Kabeer. Eid al-Kabeer means the grand feast (kabeer means big in Arabic). I had previously experienced Eid al-Sagheer (the small feast) which takes place at the end of Ramadan to celebrate the final breaking of the fast and is equivalent in many ways to Christmas with presents for children and general festivities. Eid al-Kabeer is the festival which celebrates the completion of the pilgrimage to Mecca in Zuul-Hijja, the 12th month of the Muslim year.

The feast begins with the sacrifice of a ram (in commemoration of Ibrahim's (Abraham's) sacrifice) This act is repeated throughout the Muslim world. In Morocco, every family has a ram to sacrifice (or ewe). I was in Khemisset for Eid al-Kabeer where my family boasted one of the largest rams on the street. It was kept in the shed on the roof terrace and could often be heard stopping at night. I tried to keep away from it so as not to get attached.

Eid arrived with the first rain I'd seen for at least a month. I was woken up at seven by the family, neighbours and friends there was an air of excitement. A huge breakfast was laid on for everyone (there must have been at least 40 people milling in and out of the house wishing "mbrook L'Eid"). The first person in Morocco to sacrifice the ram is supposed to be the King on television, everyone was impatient to get on with their sacrifices. The ram was cut across the throat and then its head taken clean off. It was pretty gory, but much less upsetting than I had anticipated as the rams tended to die quickly. In every doorway of every house hung a slaughtered ram, blood ran the streets and smoke from fires filled the air it was a strange day. Every single part of the ram was dissected and carried off by the women to prepare. The head and legs were placed on fires and barbecued, and the skin was taken to the roof to dry out, eventually it would be made into a sheep skin rug. The festival then consisted of eating various parts of the ram throughout the day( including brain, lungs, intestines, stomach, etc.) and for days afterwards ram was served for breakfast, lunch and tea. I became surprisingly not hungry around meal times during this period.

The Handicap Centre in Khemisset
Institution Ibn Al-Baiter des Enfants Handicapees Physiques

Set up in 1971 as part of a programme run by Save the Children, the centre is now run by l'Entraide Nationale. The centre is residential and the children age from 7 to 13. The main causes of the children's handicaps are cystic fibrosis, cerebral palsy, polio and accidents caused by poor living conditions. The school is situated 3km to the south west of Khemisset.

Whilst living in Khemisset it was easy for me to visit the handicap centre on evenings and weekends. Therefore as well as working for SPANA during this time, I found myself helping Ali, Cath and Ieuan with the children and getting to know them. This was brilliant because the children are so uplifting and there was (is) so much to do. I was known as Hanan to the children who would scream out to get my attention and rush up to greet me every time I came to the centre.

Despite their disabilities the children were generally happy, fighting and taking care of each other like a big family. Some of the older children realised that in Morocco it would be hard for them to live as they grew up with their disabilities but they took strength from the example of Kacem who himself was once a pupil of the school and is now a very well respected man in Khemisset. Our job in the centre was supervision at meal times and then playing with the children when they weren't in school. Favourite was football, and many matches were fiercely fought out on the pitch. Parties and music were also enjoyed.

During my 6 months in Morocco our group completed projects which opened a computer room and salon for the children, and re opened the swimming pool. I was chiefly involved with the donkey at the centre which SPANA had donated as part of a project to encourage the children to interact with animals. The donkey was built a stable and exercise area. Research was carried out into the best design for carriages and associations contacted to help with teaching riding to the disabled. The final aim of the project is to have the children being taught to drive carriages with the view to developing this skill into a job for life.

Spana (The Society for the Protection of Animals Abroad)

I was lucky enough to complete two placements of voluntary work for SPANA in Morocco. My first three months was spent at the refuge in Khemisset and then the second placement was in Rabat.

There are 10 SPANA refuges in Morocco - Rabat, Marrakesh, Meknes, Khemisset, Chemaia, Khenifra, Tanger, Midelt, Ouled Frej and Casablanca.

SPANA was founded in 1923, as the Society for the Protection of Animals in North Africa, by a British lady, Mrs Kate Hosali.

SPANA is dedicated to the protection and welfare of animals. In Morocco, SPANA is a great aid to the working horses, mules and donkeys, offering essential veterinary first aid. It also provides education in animal care and husbandry for their owners and through education raises public awareness of animal cruelty and environmental issues.

"Essentially SPANA helps poor families in rural and semi-rural communities by supplying free veterinary first aid to their working animals. For poor people in subsistence-level agriculture and trading in depressed areas the health of their pack of animals is critical for survival. There are over 30 million donkeys in North Africa alone and their economic importance is being increasingly recognised.

Working from a base clinic our dressers visit souks or markets every day, where they will see anything up to 1000 donkeys, mules and horses. Most common problems are saddle sores, minor wounds and infections, foot problems and of course parasites, internal and external. They also exchange English snaffle bits for worn-out or cruel local bits. Local veterinary students are given "hands on" training with vital practical experience.

Serious cases are returned to the clinics where veterinarians oversee the medical care. Anthelmintics are used routinely and antibiotics where necessary, but simple rest with good food and husbandry is an important part of treatment. In urban areas dogs and cats are offered free refuge and treatment. Problems caused by populations of unwanted dogs and cats are tackled through education and neutering programmes."
(extracted from SPANA annual report 1997)

General SPANA Figures for Morocco 1997

SPANA Refuge Khemisset (Jan to March)

Programme of Souks visited
Monday Tidess \ Sidi Abderazak
Tuesday Khemisset
Wednesday Tiflet
Thursday Ait Ouahi \ Sfasif
Friday Houderrane
Saturday Ait Ikko \ Ait Abou

Work at the refuge began at 7.30 am after a short bicycle ride from Kacem's house. After a few days, I began to settle into a routine. The first job was to muck out the resident donkeys' stables (this number varied between 3 and 7, the donkeys were mainly being treated for either bronchitis, general sores caused by ill fitting saddles and bridles, abscesses, coughs, colic, worms or lameness).
Then, after cleaning out the cats and dogs at the refuge, the truck was loaded with veterinary equipment, medicines and new bits to exchange for old worn out ones. Every morning, I, Hmeda - the aid and Abdelfatah - the technician would travel to a different souk according to the programme within a 50km radius of Khemisset. At the souk we would unload the equipment and administer treatment to needy horses, donkeys and mules. Hmeda and Abdelfatah also explained to the people better ways of caring for their animals. The farriers at the souks were always friendly to us and often gave us mint tea and a bite to eat from their breakfast. All of them were now using the modern farrier methods taught to them by SPANA to shoe horses more efficiently and humanely.

Depending on which souk we were at, one of 4 vets would travel out to meet us and check everything was in order. Our job was also to keep an eye on proceedings to make sure the animals were being treated as fairly as possible. Usually it wasn't cruelty which caused the illnesses but neglect due to lack of education. Sometimes a donkey would be too ill to treat on site, this was when we had to transport it back to the refuge. At times it was difficult to take the donkey from its owner but necessary if it was to survive, in the end the owner could see that further treatment was required and would let us take it.

In the afternoons, I was back at work again for 2.30pm, except on Saturdays which were free. People brought their animals to the refuge to be treated by Dr Hinnach, a practising vet from Tiflet. My jobs included cleaning the wounds and helping to apply medication. Every animal seen was given a wormer to combat parasites as well as any other treatment required.

In Khemisset I saw first hand all the effects of the typical problems faced by Morocco's donkeys and horses - malnutrition , poorly shod feet , over burdening. SPANA try to combat these problems by education and part of my job was also to show people the many SPANA leaflets illustrating how to improve your donkey's health.

Working at SPANA was hard at times but also rewarding when the animals recovered. It was a great experience for me. My favourite part of the day was the morning when I was able to see so much of the surrounding countryside of Khemisset as we travelled to the souks. Each souk held a new and exciting challenge and I felt that I was actually helping to build a brighter future for Morocco's working horses and donkeys.

SPANA Refuge Rabat (April to June)

Rabat was a much larger refuge than Khemisset with between 6 and 12 resident equines at any one time. My morning job was to help Brahim - the aid, muck out and put food in the stables, and clean and feed the cats and dogs.

In the afternoons after grooming and feeding the horses, mules and donkeys. I was able to sit in on consultations and operations, as well as help arrange equipment for operations. Vet students from the Rabat vet school would often come to the refuge to practice their skills and learn more. I enjoyed this as I was able to form friends of my own age. The Rabat refuge was always very busy, the team which went to the souk each morning would regularly bring back animals for treatment. There was equipment in Rabat for equine operations and I was fascinated to be involved with these. A great number of abandoned dogs and cats came to the refuge and more kittens then it was possible to keep, many of these had to be put down. Vet students were supervised and allowed to perform sterilisation operations on dogs and cats waiting adoption so that the problem could try and be controlled.

Whilst working at the Rabat refuge I met a great mixture of people, the days flew past. Visits from Ian Dacre - the chief SPANA vet, Jeremy Hume - the chief executive, volunteers from Britain and even a scout from Universal Pictures looking for cats to be in a movie in the Sahara! meant that I could take a rest from speaking my bad French as well!

All in all my two placements with SPANA were perfect. It hardly felt like work as I was learning and enjoying it so much. Both refuges I worked with were excellent and I really felt I was part of the team. I hope I've picked up some tips for vet school as well!

Travelling in Morocco

Morocco is certainly a traveller's paradise. With scenery ranging from snow capped mountains to the desert, country villages and majestic cities, I found I had so much to see and do and so little time. Another good thing about travelling in Morocco is that compared to Britain it is ridiculously cheap (about one pound 20 pence for an hour taxi ride from Khemisset to Rabat!). As long as you can put up with maniac driving and being squashed in with 6 other passengers, taxis are definitely a great way to travel, easy, quick and always available. The bus service is a little more temperamental, we learnt to not bother looking up times of buses and just expect a long wait at the bus station. Travelling around the north was probably most comfortable and reliable by train. From Rabat to Marrakesh took us 4 hours by rail, as opposed to Jess and Ieuan who spent 8 hours travelling by bus to Marrakesh from Taroudant (which is a shorter distance). Travelling was done mostly on the weekends, however in April I had some time off to really explore.

Extracts from my diary

The Desert Trip

APRIL 14th
Woke up early and went for walk around MoHameed, a village on the edge of the Sahara desert. Unfortunately the desert is growing and engulfing the village, deserted houses half covered in sand told a harrowing tale. After lunch our camels arrived, they were so big and evil looking, I was actually quite scared. After two hours of travelling I was more sore than scared, not the most comfortable method of transport. The wind whipped sand in our faces. Soon there was only sand no date trees, bushes, just sand. Definitely what you would call an eerie beauty, nuclear war quiet, sand stinging your eyes. The scorching sun was numbed by sand clouds. As my camel rode on my head scarf flapped across my face creating an old cine film effect. We arrived at our camp and had mint tea and tagine, our tents were homely even though they had no doors and huge holes in the roof. The stars were so bright until the full moon rose, it was huge and yellow. Our guides decided it was time for a bit of tribal dancing.

APRIL 15th
I awoke to find everyone half buried in sand. I watched the sun rise over the dunes. Silhouetted camels wandered aimlessly.

Marrakesh

MAY 29th
Had breakfast with David Denison, then he took me and Tim to see the SPANA refuge. Arrived back at our hotel (swimming pool, tv, bathroom, 6 pounds a night) at mid day. Went to see Saadien's tombs. The tombs are 400 years old and excavated in perfect condition. Gold, marble and precious stones are set in beautiful carved ceilings and walls. In the evening we ate cous cous on the main square, Place Djemaa-el Fna, as much as we could eat for 20 dirhams, 1 pound 20. The square is alive at night- smoke, story tellers, snake charmers, games and lights are dazzling.

MAY 30th
Tim and I were by now getting into the sightseeing game. We planned a highly organised route of sights to see. Poor Ali is ill in bed. Got lost, but eventually found the Badia Palace, it is completely in ruins due to Moulay Ismail of Meknes pulling it down at the end of the Saadien dynasty, apparently it would have been as spectacular as the tombs we saw yesterday. In the afternoon met Ieuan and Jess who had travelled from Taroudant to meet us. We all then visited the Bahia Palace, built in the late 19th century and sections of it are still used to this day.

I realise I'm beginning to babble on. Getting lost in my own memories. There are too many wonderful places and stories to be told. I was so lucky to have been able to travel to so many different places in Morocco.

Meknes and Volubilis (Roman ruins).
Fez, Home of leather, pottery and all sorts of crafts. The old medina's a maze of tiny streets. The finest of the Imperial cities.

Casablanca visited so many times. Large, loud, cheesy, dirty but with a unique charm. I loved it.

Essouira. Blue and white fishing village. Boasts links with Jimmy Hendrix, sea, sun and sand. Amazing fish meals at the harbour.

Agadir, Tourist over run. Lovely beach though.
Taroudant walled city in the south beautiful, dusty.

River valleys, mountain villages, tiny beach communities and much much more.

Morocco really was the fastest 6 months of my life and the great memories I know will never be forgotten. I want to thank everybody who made my time there so enjoyable. Special thanks to:

David Denison for interesting landrover journeys and his commitment to the Trust.
Kacem El Mallouli for his friendship, advice and ability to "fix" anything. Also a special mention of his dedication to handicapped children in Morocco.
Little Mohammed for his football.
Big Mohammed for his food and philosophy.
Abdelkrim for putting up with us in Culture class and his organisation in Taroudant.
Said for looking after me in Rabat, cafes and Arabic lessons.
Keis for being a true friend to the volunteers in Khemisset.
Everybody at the Rabat SPANA refuge.
Hmeda and Abdelfatah in the Khemisset refuge for opening my eyes to the souks.
Dr Ian Dacre for all his hard work with SPANA, friendliness and ability to party.
Kacem's family ( Mwee, Kadijia, Lubna, Eisha, Simira, Fatima, Mohammed, Fatima and all the children) for their love, kindness and strength as a family in sad times.
Said's family in Rabat ( Hajj, Hajja, Sumia, Symohammed, Rachid, and Jamilla) for their love and hospitality.
Emma, Mayaz and Claire for her laughter.
Everyone who wrote to me and kept me in touch with the gossip from Cardiff.
Mum and Dad for worrying about me.
Mary for missing me, phone calls and Spain.

And special, special thanks to the others without whom I could never have survived:

Jess for being mad, her pointless stories, great conversations, breaking my alarm clock and finally winning my friendship. Special mention to her conquering of Mount Tubkal (respect) and her sickness.
Ieuan for his good ability to listen, grumpiness in the mornings, good times in Asilah, coffee, and of course his tolerance of Mike the builder jokes.
Ali for his music and ability to lose everything, his quest for fame and fun, his bad 80's hair days, huge mouth and ninja moves, plus his opinion of high heeled shoes.
Tim for being my fellow indulger and bad influence where patisserie items were concerned, for our many gossips on the CTM, for sightseeing and for being the nicest, most reasonable bloke. Special thanks for always letting me boss him around and stamp my little foot.
Paul for his opinions and for always being right, for his personality clinic which thankfully I never attended, for pushing me in the lake, for naming me Pan-Head, for our discussions and I ask him to pass on my regards to Dr Thompson.
Cath for her willpower, for eating my pecan nuts in the convent garden, for introducing me to exercise and face masks, for escaping to the Palais Salam to drink G and T, for swimming in our underwear when we rented the car, and for being the coolest.